Middle and Grand Teton Weekend

When I was starting out in backcountry skiing, I stumbled on Steve Romeo’s well known blog, Live to Ski. I spent many late nights watching his movies and blog posts about the wonders of skiing in the Teton range. Years later, I am still hooked on skiing in the Tetons. With no class on Friday, Blake Votilla and I drove out from Missoula after class on Thursday. We arrived at the Bradley-Taggert trailhead at 1:30am. Four hours later we were awake, suiting up for our first day in the park that season, under clear skies. The first photo from that morning is at the lake, with calm winds, no clouds, and alpine glow on the way to the Middle Teton.

The excellent conditions had us in great spirits, and we enjoyed meeting several other groups ascending up the canyon. After leaving the meadows, Blake follows up the Middle Teton glacier, with the Grand Teton’s south face behind. The route was in good condition, and we were psyched to get on this classic!

Blake ascending the Glacier Route, Middle Teton.

Above the Ellingwood col on the Middle Teton. Climbing through Teton slabbiness covered in a few inches of snow. Whippets are good for mixed climbing right? Votilla Photo.

As we climbed to a distinctive notch towards the summit of the Middle, we found increasingly warm snow at a rock band. This rock band is usually covered in deeper snow years. With the lack of anchor materials, and warming snow, we decided to turn around, about 120 feet shy of the summit. Another reason to come back, and we were psyched to ski what was below! Descending from our high point on the Middle Teton. Votilla photo.

Blake descending from the Middle Teton. Steve Romeo considered this section to be the crux of the route. The terrain and turns were super high quality. A well deserved North American classic route.

The east face of the Middle, with visible ski lines from Brian Johnson and Zach. Great line guys!

After skiing off of the Middle, we were super impressed with the conditions in the Tetons. I felt so fortunate to be there during such a good weather window. We returned to Jackson to meet some friends, and decided to take a look at the Grand the next day. We were happy to be in bed early, and were at the trailhead by 3. After several hours in the dark, we enjoy the sunrise from the Teepee glacier.

After the hike from the valley, it felt great to round the corner into the Stettner. The wind and spindrift were ripping, and I soloed the ice bulges with my eyes mostly closed. Here, Blake follows on one of the ice bulges.

After deliberating somewhat, we decided to break out the rope for the Chevy. I led two mellow ice bulges before entering the Ford couloir. Blake followed, and we started booting to the summit. Midway up the Ford couloir, already above the Middle Teton. What a place to have skis!

Onto the ridge, looking into the Ford couloir.

Blake on a windy and snowy summit of the Grand!

Trying to smile through the wind, but stoked to have finally made it to this summit! I used Hammer Nutrition Sustained Energy and Heed to great effect on the Grand.

Blake descending to the rappels below. The rappels begin at the rock column directly above Blake.

I was super psyched here. Great turns in an exposed, aesthetic setting. About to back up the anchor and start rappelling, with great views of the Middle Teton, and our ski route from the day before.

Descending the rappels. Votilla photo.

Blake following one of the rappels.

Skiing the Grand and most of the Middle fully exceeded my expectations. I am really grateful for these experiences and everyone who has been apart of this mountain life!

A few video clips from the weekend: