Sometimes it makes sense to start at the end. When I turned the car into the garage late Monday night, 2300 miles later, I gave a shout of excitement. The excitement spurred not from being home, but instead from a wonderful trip that brought me from the sagebrush fields of Jackson to the temperate rain forests of British Columbia’s coast.
March 29, 2015
After a quiet night organizing gear and chatting conditions with local friends, Blake Votilla and I had a civilized morning and were skinning from the trailhead at 7:15. The approach, per Teton style, was short, and we were at the top of the line three hours from the trailhead.
The view to Prospector mountain from Phelps lake. Fast travel across the ice brought us quickly to the Apocalypse.
We pulled out two 30m ropes, and started rappelling into the couloir. We were following The Dorais’ tracks, and just as they had told us, two 30m ropes is enough with a little downclimbing.
About to begin the second rappel into the Apocalypse.
After three rappels and some downclimbing, we were at the skiing, and it was good!
Blake near the end of the north facing portion of the couloir.
As we rounded the corner down to the waterfall, what had once been a clean powder runout was now a deep runnel down to waterfall ice in the choke of the couloir. We broke out the ropes again and made another rappel. Here, I made a poor judgement call, and kept my skis on for the rappel. It looked as though after the first rappel we could begin skiing again, or if not I could build a v thread. However, the next ten feet below the end of the ropes was still alpine ice, although it did not have that appearance at the anchor. Once at the end of the rope, a v thread seemed impractical and time consuming with warming temperatures on the waterfalls around us. Instead, I told Blake to switch to crampons at the anchor and awkwardly transitioned to crampons from skis on the ice. We quickly began downclimbing the runnel until in a safe zone far enough below the ice. This was a learning experience in being efficient in situations that demanded it, and in trying to decide between crampons and skis when trying to move fast.
In the East facing portion of the couloir, before the ice rappels.
We skied some great corn on the apron, and took a long break at the creek to refill and enjoy the blue Teton day.
The view of the lower Apocalypse couloir from the trail out. The upper couloir is tucked in the rock face.
The Apocalypse couloir is a classic route in the Tetons, for good reason. It requires a diversity of skills, and is enjoyable the whole way down.
The next day, I was up early, psyched to get into Garnet Canyon. Skinning into the meadows at daybreak and having so many rad lines right in front of you quickly doubles the pace. I headed into the South fork of Garnet and was soon on a perfect booter up the Southwest couloir to the summit of the Middle Teton.
Clear evidence you are in the Tetons. Staircase to the summit!
Looking down the Southwest couloir, my ascent route.
Middle Teton Summit, my second attempt!
The summit had only a light breeze and clear skies. I admired the views quickly, but the East face, my intended ski route, was warming quickly. With lots of exposed rock due to the relative low snow year, I pulled out the rope and started rappelling down the East face.
Looking up at my first rappel, after I pulled the rope.
Looking down onto the rock choke and the rest of the Glacier Route.
Rappelling on the East Face.
Once on the Glacier route, I coiled the rope and started skiing. The position here is amazing, with the full view of the south face of the Grand Teton. I skied the fin, perhaps the crux of the ski route, in deep winter snow. Once in the shade of the pinnacle, the sun had not hit the last storm snow, and I made some powder turns down to the wind buffed glacier. At the bottom of the route, I considered other lines on the peak, but warming temperatures had me content with a decision to call it a day. I can’t wait to ski many of the other high quality lines on this peak.
Looking back at the East face, my descent route.
After a great solo day on the Middle Teton, several more friends came down from Missoula to ski the next day. As per usual in Jackson, we had a big dinner and got to bed early. The next morning we were skinning in the early morning light, and spotted a large owl, maybe a great horned, but not big enough to be a great grey. For those that know me, morning owl encounters seem to be a good omen, and this day was no different. We were headed to Buck mountain’s East face, via its Northeast ridge, with a big crew.
Ascending to the ridgeline.
On the ridgeline, looking east.
Looking north towards Garnet Canyon.
Enjoyable scrambling on the ridge to the summit behind.
John Lehrman on the ridge.
Ryan coming up the rock crux of the ridge.
Looking back along the ridgeline.
John Lehrman descending the East face. Fun skiing!
Skiing “Dark side of the moon” couloir, east of shoot the moon couloir, in the afternoon.
After three great back to back days of skiing in the Tetons, weather moved in and it was time to head out. I was missing springtime in Squamish, so I pointed west and drove to the coast. Suffice to say that Squamish included trail running, many late nights, great food, friends, and about 17 pitches of granite.
Salmon eggs benedict at Fergies, a requirement of any Squamish trip.
Squamish legend, Al, soloing some Smoke Bluff classics.
Looking down pitch one of Hairpin.
Parker beginning pitch two of Hairpin. Probably the best pitch.
Parker following pitch 3 of Hairpin. Two more pitches to the top, followed by an afternoon on the Chief!
Spring break was everything I hoped it would be. Great weather in the Tetons, good friends, and fun climbing in Squamish. Till next time!
Western Ridgelines-Carl Kohnstamm 